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Friends ask me what to look at when they try an unfamiliar chicken pho place. I do not rate places or name them, but for someone who has stood over a pot of chicken pho for years, there are four things you can see the moment the bowl lands on the table.
1. A clear broth, so you can see the bottom of the bowl
Good broth is usually clear, a pale gold, with a thin layer of fat on top. Cloudy broth often comes from cooking over high heat or from bones that were not blanched well. The smell should be a light one of chicken bones, ginger and grilled shallots, not seasoning powder. If the first spoonful tastes a little mild, do not judge too quickly: by the second and third spoonful the flavour builds.
2. Chicken cooked just right
Good chicken is tender and still sweet with juice, the skin thin and slightly golden, not mushy and not dry. Shredded or sliced is fine as long as there is no off smell. Try a piece dipped in salt, pepper and lime before pouring broth over; if that is good, the broth and the chicken have usually both been looked after.
Read the tips for boiling golden-skinned chicken that stays moist
3. Soft noodles and fresh herbs
The noodles should be soft with a slight chew, not mushy and not clumped. The herbs, such as spring onion, coriander and onion pickled in vinegar, must be fresh, because they give the bowl its fragrance. A Northern bowl of chicken pho needs little extra seasoning, so the cook gets it right from the start.
4. Dipping sauces and extras
A small dish of ginger sauce, a dish of salt, pepper and lime, a plate of fresh herbs and fried dough sticks show whether a place cares. Vinegared onion that is not too sour, chilli that does not overpower, fresh lime: small details that tell you how it is made.
- Go at breakfast time, when the pot is new and the chicken has just been boiled.
- Ask whether it is free-range or commercial chicken, then choose to your taste.
- Hanoi chicken pho is eaten with little seasoning on top, so taste before adding.
The chicken pho at Bếp Kinh Kỳ is made this way: bones blanched well, simmered gently, skimmed steadily, chicken boiled to the right point. I wrote this so you have a way to choose a place, not to sell.
Read the article on Hanoi chicken pho
Quick questions
- Is a mild chicken pho broth a sign of poor cooking?
- Not necessarily. Good broth is often mild at the first spoonful and builds as you eat, because the flavour comes from many things together, not from salt.
- When is the best time to eat chicken pho?
- Morning is usually when the pot and chicken are freshest, though many places cook for the whole day.
- Should I add chilli sauce or vinegar to chicken pho?
- Taste first and then add a little at a time. Hanoi chicken pho is usually eaten with lime, chilli and vinegared onion in moderation, so they do not drown the broth.
